Sep 01, 2023
by Sofia de la Cruz
Deadwood’s Mycelium-Powered CPHFW Debut Presents Nature as Artist and As Muse
by Sofia de la Cruz
Sep 01, 2023

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) recently concluded its most significant season to date, drawing substantial international press and buyer attendance. For the second time, participating brands had to meet 18 minimum standards for responsible fashion production to earn a spot on the schedule, encompassing strategic direction, design, sustainable materials, ethical working conditions, consumer engagement and show production.

CPHFW is a notable force for industry change, standing out among major fashion hubs for its commitment to sustainability. Each season, it attracts more global visitors and raises awareness for fashion labels of all sizes, underscoring that fashion can be both responsible and fun – take, for example, Ganni’s show featuring talking trees. A standout debut at this season’s event, however, came from Deadwood – a Stockholm-based label with innovative approaches to materials and sustainability.

Born as an offshoot of a Stockholm vintage store established by Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder in 2012, Deadwood transformed from reworking vintage clothing to pioneering waste-efficient practices in the leather industry. It now offers products made from upcycled deadstock leather and sustainable vegan alternatives.

Deadwood’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection presentation aimed to spotlight modern society’s paradoxes while celebrating human resilience. Drawing inspiration from a dystopian future marked by drought and desertification, the show was part of the brand’s “Cataclysms” series. Sustainability remained central to the collection, with Deadwood’s ongoing use of upcycled leather and the introduction of recycled fibers and natural dyes.

The unisex collection featured flowing silhouettes that blended technical lightweight materials with heavier natural fabrics. Earthy tones like sand, beige and terracotta dominated the color palette, complementing contemporary silhouettes adorned with intricate patterns and patchwork. Notably, Deadwood collaborated with XV Production to produce parts of the SS24 collection locally in Sweden, using upcycled garments and in-house deadstock fabrics.

The highlight of the collection, however, was the “Canoo Reishi Jacket,” made entirely from Reishi™ in collaboration with MycoWorks. This vegan material, cultivated from the Reishi fungus, offers leather-like qualities with a unique earthy touch. The jacket sees a deconstructed design with buckles, a button closure, a brushed steel neck plate and an external logo plaque.

von Bahder, Creative Director of Deadwood, praised the material, stating: “Every square centimeter of this material is a work of art itself, and Nature is the artist. I just love the raw quality of the surface with its organic formations of spots and specks. That’s what perfection looks like to me.”

Deadwood had previously introduced the world’s first ready-to-wear capsule collection made entirely from Fine Mycelium™ in Spring/Summer 2023. The unisex capsule included a statement coat, a vest, a jacket and a bag, all in a natural warm golden-brown color, crafted on demand in XV Production’s Swedish atelier within 4-8 weeks.

The Canoo Reishi Jacket by Deadwood is now available for made-to-order purchase online for $1,603 USD. Make sure to take a look at this natural masterpiece in the gallery above.